Water and More Water

 

British Columbia's coastline is over 25,000 km (15,000 miles) long, incised by deep fjords reaching into the heart of the Coastal Mountains. Roughly spanning 11 degrees of latitude (49th to 60th), there are only four access points from the interior of Canada to the Pacific Ocean because of the rugged terrain. Vancouver and Prince Rupert are easily reached by excellent highways. Stewart, where we visited a couple of years ago, is another. 

Part Two of our recent road trip took us to Bella Coola, the fourth access point to the coast via roads. Scottish explorer Sir Alexander Mackenzie, the first European to cross the North American continent north of Mexico, reached Bella Coola in July 1793. Had he arrived just six weeks earlier, he would have met Captain Cook who sailed up the long fjords to the same spot. What a meeting that would have been! 

The road to Bella Coola includes an infamous section known as The Hill, or The Precipice. Descending from 5000 feet to sea level in 10 kilometres via treacherous curves on a steep gravel road with no guardrails where looking over the edge is like looking into an abyss, it's not for the fainthearted. Locals told us that some people who drive down refuse to return via the same route, preferring to fly out, or take the ferry. Tim put the Tahoe in four-wheel drive low and crawled safely down the hill. I just prayed. And took a few photos.

Once there, we settled into our campsite with a magnificent view of snow-capped mountains. The Heiltsuk people have lived in the area for thousands of years, hunting and fishing the deep waters. In the early 1900s a group of Norwegian settlers arrived from Minnesota and their descendants still live in the area.

Water is everywhere. Glacial fed rivers tumble over rocks in hundreds of waterfalls, tall and small. 

The fjord is very long, bending and turning along various arms. There is so much fresh water entering the fjord that it has the distinctive milky green colour created by glacial flour. As one travels down the fjords the water changes to the more typical ocean blue. 

Sunny weather was the rule for most of our stay in Bella Coola. On the one rainy day, we drove up into the mountains on a forestry road (ie: rough). Although we didn't see the glacier we hoped for, the landscape astounded us with its beauty. High alpine meadows are home to a wonderful array of flora and fauna. 

The mountains played peek-a-boo with the clouds. 

On our way out of Bella Coola we saw our second bear of the trip, ambling down the road, weaving back and forth along the centreline as if doing a sobriety test. He slowly moved to the side as we inched closer to him. 

Back up The Hill to the interior plain again, also beautiful and green. 

Down through the arid lands around Cache Creek, and along the Fraser River until we reached the ferry terminal, and home. 

As Canada Day approaches I am so thankful for this beautiful land where I live. Happy Canada Day to my fellow Canadians! 

Gold and Water

 

Home again after a fun trip exploring some of the more remote corners of our beautiful province. After taking the ferry to the mainland, we stopped at Nairn Falls Campground. A short walk took us to the lookout from where we heard the water thundering over the rocks and through the canyon carved out over millennia by the power of water.  

Up along the Duffy Lake Road that winds through the Coastal Mountains into the interior of BC. The landscape changed dramatically from coastal rainforest to rolling hills covered with sagebrush. We settled into a campsite at Seton Lake where a dam provides hydroelectricity for the power grid. 

In the 1960s my father drove a tanker-trailer hauling fuel to many places. One of those was the mining town of Bralorne. Dad said that he first drove the road in the winter, at night. He was so shaken by the experience that he told his dispatcher he wouldn't drive it again. However, the next night, away he went. At least he knew what to expect the second time. 

Tim and I drove the road in the daylight, in summer, without a trailer, and that was an adventure! The road is winding and narrow, clinging to the cliff, with many signs warning of rock fall. We drove around rocks going, and even more returning. 

Bralorne is a mostly abandoned gold-mining town, with its heyday in the 1940s and 50s. During the Fraser River goldrush in the 1850s miners rushed to place their claims along the rivers in the area. Few made it as far as Bralorne as the terrain is very steep and uninviting. In the late 1800s the mother lode of gold was discovered and a mine constructed in 1931. The mine was the richest gold mine in Canada, but closed in 1971 due to the low cost of gold (about $34 cdn per ounce). 

Tim spoke with some men at the mine site which has been reactivated, because, as we know, the price of gold has risen considerably. The mine will never be as vast as it once was, but still productive.

A friend of mine grew up in Bralorne. She attended the church shown above, one of the few well-maintained buildings in town. 

Abandoned houses and gardens tell the stories of the past. In one, yellow roses bloom alongside lilac bushes. Poppies grow from stone walls. A few homes are occupied as the area is great for heli-skiing in the winter. 

The old community hall is locked and no longer in use due to safety concerns. But beside one outside corner is a pay telephone and a post office box. The school was first converted to a museum, but is now abandoned and the museum housed in the former post office. It was closed the day we were there. 

A circular outdoor feature displays various pieces of mining equipment with short descriptions of their use, and this old fire truck. We noticed that many of the buildings in town, lived-in or not, have sprinklers on the roofs, a necessity in this area where forest fires have ravaged areas.

Hydro dams dot the area. All the water rushing down the mountains is put to good use in generating power for our province. I wonder which has been the most profitable - gold or water? 

Postcards from the Road

 

We’re off exploring our beautiful province. Hairpin turns, 

majestic views in remote territory where bear warnings abound, but we have not seen one yet. 

Stunning waterfalls, rivers, and lakes a-plenty. 

Flowers growing in abandoned villages. 

Will fill in more on our return. 

Friday Favourites from Home and Away

I rather dropped off the blogosphere for a couple of weeks. We were camping on the west coast of Vancouver Island, in Ucluelet (pronounced as it's written - the U (you) is the first syllable). Our hikes took us along very rugged shores with stunning views of sea, rocks, and sky. The weather, which can be quite wet, cooperated fully with lots of sunshine and no rain. 

There are some fantastical-looking natural sculptures in the forest. This tangle of tree trunk and roots looks to me like a prehistoric creature frozen in time. Enormous trees, bald eagles, much birdsong, a little kayaking, hiking, and relaxing with a view nicely filled the four days of our trip.

One morning we drove along the highway a short distance to enjoy a picnic lunch on a sandy beach. How surprising to see thick drifts of mist obscuring the waves and rocks. If one were out at sea, it would be dangerous. No wonder this stretch of water is called the Graveyard of the Pacific. 

We saw no boats, but during our walk along the beach, a group of cyclists materialized out of the mist, silently pedaling past us to disappear just as quickly in the other direction. Surreal is the word that came to mind.

We've been home now for a week, catching up with house and garden. There've been a number of appointments and social engagements keeping us busy, including a birthday party for a 6-year-old and a new teenager. Last night was the band/choir concert for our newly 13-year-old granddaughter. 

The pale pink peonies (I think they are Sarah Bernhardt) have delighted me all week. I believe these ruffled beauties are my favourites of them all, so feminine and elegant. 

Every few days I pick another bowlful of ripe strawberries, juicy and sweet. We slice them into our breakfast granola, or eat them plain. I've frozen a couple of bags for winter to use for sauces or smoothies. Soon the blueberries will ripen from green to dusty blue-purple. The bushes are loaded and a couple of American Robins have been visiting. To hopefully deter them, we've strung rope above the bushes and hung blank CDs on string to dance and dazzle in the sunshine. Those CDs have been sitting in a box for years, of no use to us as originally intended. It's quite festive looking from my kitchen window. We will see how effective they are. 

There's an invasive species that's appeared in the past five years - the European Wall Lizard. The story of its appearance is a cautionary tale - a man once had a small zoo on nearby. When he tired of the zoo, he let the animals loose. The lizard was one of them and it has slowly made inroads, moving from the site of its release on the peninsula to invade gardens throughout the south island. I'm certain they will move northwards, as well. I don't like the creatures at all, but they have one semi-redeeming feature in that they eat the slugs that used to carve holes into my strawberries. 

Roses are the stars of the garden now. Lichfield Angel is the newest and produces bloom after creamy bloom. I am a little startled by how large the bush is and am contemplating pruning it to not sprawl quite so much. There is always a bouquet or two or three of roses in the house these days, in varying shades of pink and white. 

I tried a new dish, Muhalabia, an Arabic milk pudding faintly flavoured with rose water. My Persian friend gave me a bottle of rose water and I'm looking for ways to use it. The pudding is similar to Panna Cotta from Italy, but thickened with cornstarch rather than gelatin. Not too sweet and delicious with fresh strawberries and a sprinkle of macadamia nuts (the recipe recommends pistachios). 

 Elderflowers adorn the bush these days. My little helper Cora held the blossoms while I snipped them to make Elderflower Cordial. On a warm summer day a tall glass of club soda with ice and this concentrate is perfect for sipping while on the patio. 

I'm slowly catching up with reading blogs, and hope to visit you there soon. 

One Last Day in May

I'm barely slipping under the clock with this last May post. In most of the world it's already June. Outside my window a line of cloud-streaked light fills the sky, creating a silhouette of the trees. There's a bit of wind seen as one branch of a near lilac tree waves back and forth.

Peonies are my delight in the garden just now. The various bushes bloom at different times, prolonging the season. These creamy white Duchesse de Nemours are nearly finished, but how beautiful they've been. 

The bees are mad for chive blossoms. I counted at least six varieties of bees hard at work one sunny evening. 

Foxgloves, roses, and Lady's Mantle meld together in a fine trio against the hedge. The foxgloves are taller than I can remember, towering far above my head. 

Here Gertrude Jekyll seems to be whispering something to the foxglove. I wonder what secrets flowers would tell. Only the very nicest, I'm certain. 

I mentioned that my parents were celebrating their 70th wedding anniversary in my previous post. Here they are in May 1955. When I show the photo, people often comment on how lovely Mom's dress is. I agree, but Mom tells me it wasn't the one she would have chosen. Her father and stepmother chose it for her. 

Several years ago Mom donated her dress to an organization that makes gowns for stillbirth babies. 

And here they are after 70 years. Still in love, still smiling. Marriage isn't always easy, but they've stuck together through thick and thin, committed to each other and to God. My siblings and I are so thankful to have them.

One last peony image for this post. We made a quick trip to the mainland to celebrate with Mom and Dad, taking them out for lunch, having a special cake, and a short photo session. Just eight of us - my parents, my siblings and I, and our spouses. 

Today I've puttered in the garden, including cutting this bouquet of peonies. There were just a few white buds left, so I included them along with the pink ones. 

May has been such a lovely month with plenty of sunshine and some much-needed rain, making it perfect for getting the vegetable garden in. Last night after arriving home I went out to see three pole bean seeds barely poking through the dirt. This morning they are unfurling their first seed leaves. So much fun to watch. 

"And then, one fairy night, 

May became June."

F. Scott Fitzgerald

Gardens in May

 

Spring is slowly giving way to summer, but not without intermittent regressions. This morning's view from my window is of soft grey clouds with a band of pale blue, then one of puffy clouds and mist trailing in the hills beyond. Rain fell during the night and the new deck surface my husband is working on is shiny wet.

I'm harvesting radishes and lettuce from the garden, also rhubarb and plenty of herbs - oregano, thyme, and chives. A few moments were spent in the sunshine yesterday watching a dozen fat bees of busy amongst the purple chive flowers. Blooms on the pea plants mean that we'll soon be eating peas. The youngest grandchildren were here and found a handful of ripe strawberries to nibble on. How I love this month when the garden bursts with life. 

Foxgloves self-seed and this group chose a wonderful spot, in the back of the flower bed against the fence. There's a feverfew plant visiting with them, and columbines adding to the party. All grew without my interference. Well done, self-seeders!

I took myself to Butchart Gardens early last week and walked under the laburnum arches that mark the entrance from the parking lot. A canopy of golden rain. 

Himalayan Blue Poppies (meconopsis baileyi) were at their peak, with their translucent petals. Butchart Gardens does not have plant labels other than in the rose garden, but gives visitors a plant guide for each season. There are many tourists in the gardens now, with buses filling the parking lot. I heard many questions with people wondering what this or that plant is, along with oohs and ahhs at the beautiful displays. 

The Sunken Garden is one of the showpieces, created when Jenny Butchart, had the vision to beautify the limestone rock quarry emptied by her husband's business in the early 1900s. The story is told of visitors stopping by the property to see the gardens, and being served tea by Mrs. Butchart until the crowds became so great that the family began charging people. The original house is now used as a tea room and restaurant. Butchart Gardens is still owned by the family, and has been designated a National Historic Site of Canada. 

Back in my own very modest garden the roses are beginning to bloom, starting with fragrant Gertrude Jekyll. Peonies, too, and with the rain last night, the white Duchesse de Nemours blossoms are nodding towards the ground. 

For Mother's Day last week, I gave the mothers of my grandchildren a watercolour sketch done from a couple of photos. It was a fun project. I have been inspired by Monique who paints lovely simple images. She also shares them on her Instagram page. 

This week we will be making a short trip to the mainland to celebrate my parents' 70th wedding anniversary. It's a simple celebration with just them and my siblings and spouses. I am so thankful for their love throughout the years. So, there are things to prepare this week and I had better get to it. 

Friday Favourites: A Week in May

 

I still find each day too short for all the thoughts I want to 

think, all the walks I want to take, all the books I want to read

and all the friends I want to see.

John Burroughs

Halfway through May. The days slip by, full of ordinary things. A friend took me on a tour around her new property. I used the Seek App on my phone to identify many unknown plants including the Leopard's Bane (doronicum) above. The bright yellow patch of flowers underplanted with bluebells is so pretty. 

My husband loves cycling. He rides for pleasure, but also to run errands. I find cycling enjoyable on flat ground. Hills and I do not get along at all. And to go anywhere from our house requires descending a short, steep hill, which means ascending on the way home. Yesterday friends invited us to go for a bike ride using their electric bikes. I was skeptical and dreading the outing. I soon got the hang of it, though, and found myself zooming UP hills. It was so much fun. Perhaps an electric bike is in my future, but there's more thinking to do first. 

On Tuesday Cora and I went to the park and around the pond. No baby ducks yet. We played a few rounds of hide and seek in the forest, and she posed on a tree trunk just made for sitting. I'm certain that she walked twice the distance I did with all her running ahead and then back.

We've enjoyed beautiful sunshine for many days. On a morning walk many things vied for my attention. Here are a few of them:

Himalayan Clematis

Birdsong in every tree

Swaths of Camas Lilies in the woods, dark blue with 

gold-tipped stamens

Creamy Pacific Dogwood blooms

Masses of horsetail in some new landscaping - a real nuisance,

but feathery green and soft just now

An elderly woman bundled in a heavy hooded jacket 

with her walker slowly moving along the street

A patch of Irises in half sun, half shade

A single weathered Adirondack chair sitting in a patch

of sunlight

Fawn Lilies all but disappeared now other than their

spotted leaves

Bellis Daisies against the taller stems of Camas Lilies

The wide smile of a young boy biking to school

Infinite shades of green leaves

The blue skies and warm sunshine have disappeared in the past two days, replaced by a sharp wind off the Pacific, and drizzle today. We need the rain, so I won't complain. Sweater weather again. 

I've thought about these Poet's Narcissus that I saw on our recent boating trip, wondering who planted them there in a grassy meadow overlooking the sea. Perhaps a woman longed to create spots of beauty in her life isolated from society. Her house is abandoned and falling apart, but still her flowers bloom, testament to her existence. Of the dock where she once arrived only two cement pilings remain.

My extravagance is my garden - it's the first

thing I look at every morning when I

wake up. It gives me so much pleasure.

Ina Garten

One peony plant has bloomed and the others have many buds on them. I'm eager to see them open, along with the roses. I made a sad observation to Tim the other day, admitting to myself that I don't have room for any more permanent plants in my garden. Instead, I'll content myself arranging pots of annuals and enjoy the shrubs and perennials as they come. 

Wishing you a delightful weekend.