October Daily 18: There Be Bears!

 

On our trip to the Arctic over the summer, we did not go to the American state of Alaska, other than for one 10-kilometre stretch of the Alaska Panhandle. We stayed in the small town of Stewart, BC, and crossed the USA/Canada border there. Hyder, Alaska bills itself as the "friendliest little ghost town", and a ghost town it is. There is one bar, one gift store, and a fish and chip restaurant, plus a very few families and old-timers. Hyder's electricity and phone services are supplied by BC.

The only road to access several gold and copper mines in BC, Canada, runs through Hyder. During the pandemic, when the border was closed, life was made doubly difficult for these few Americans who lived in Hyder. The only way out was via seaplane or boat. The few children in town attended a Canadian school in Stewart, but that ended abruptly. Residents would phone their grocery orders into the Canadian grocers, who packaged everything into boxes and left them at the border crossing for pickup. 

This is a remote area of BC and Alaska, with tall, steep, densely forested mountains lining narrow valleys where water rushes down, down, down to the sea. The main attraction of Hyder is just a few miles beyond the town at the Fish Creek Wildlife Observation Site. 

In the most beautiful, lush, green temperate rainforest, pools of water are home to many kinds of waterfowl, including the Common Mergansers seen above. 

In mid-August, summer is already drawing to a close, and salmon begin their long trek upstream to spawn in the many rivers and streams. The USA Fish and Wildlife Department constructed an observation deck alongside the stream. Here we watched salmon lay their eggs and die, bodies decaying into the water and soil. 

Exciting as the salmon run is, it's no match for another event that takes place at the same time - grizzly bears fattening up for winter. From the safety of the observation deck, on two separate days we watched grizzlies fishing for salmon. 

The first bear we saw was in the evening and we waited about an hour before he showed up. We were driving to the observation site when we saw the second grizzly cross the road in front of us and head down into the bushes by the river. We parked and raced in so as not to miss anything. 

The people who stood along the observation deck were mostly quiet as we waited for bears to appear. Once they did appear, everyone was silent, watching the amazing spectacle before us. It was like being part of a nature documentary, with the bear running back and forth in the water after the salmon. 

I was utterly amazed at how close we were to these bears, and they seemed unaware of us. Notorious for their poor eyesight, they couldn't see us above the wooden barrier, but surely they could smell us. Regardless, they paid us no attention at all. In the above photo, the bear was directly below me in the stream. 

I've uploaded to Youtube two videos of bears running in the water and splashing as they catch salmon. 

Grizzly Bear in the Morning 

Grizzly Bear in the Evening 

This is my private channel, but the videos should be visible with the link. Searching for them on Youtube won't work. This is new technology for me, so I hope it works! Tim took the videos while I took stills. 

Our entire trip was filled with fun, but this experience was definitely one of the highlights.