Water and More Water

 

British Columbia's coastline is over 25,000 km (15,000 miles) long, incised by deep fjords reaching into the heart of the Coastal Mountains. Roughly spanning 11 degrees of latitude (49th to 60th), there are only four access points from the interior of Canada to the Pacific Ocean because of the rugged terrain. Vancouver and Prince Rupert are easily reached by excellent highways. Stewart, where we visited a couple of years ago, is another. 

Part Two of our recent road trip took us to Bella Coola, the fourth access point to the coast via roads. Scottish explorer Sir Alexander Mackenzie, the first European to cross the North American continent north of Mexico, reached Bella Coola in July 1793. Had he arrived just six weeks earlier, he would have met Captain Cook who sailed up the long fjords to the same spot. What a meeting that would have been! 

The road to Bella Coola includes an infamous section known as The Hill, or The Precipice. Descending from 5000 feet to sea level in 10 kilometres via treacherous curves on a steep gravel road with no guardrails where looking over the edge is like looking into an abyss, it's not for the fainthearted. Locals told us that some people who drive down refuse to return via the same route, preferring to fly out, or take the ferry. Tim put the Tahoe in four-wheel drive low and crawled safely down the hill. I just prayed. And took a few photos.

Once there, we settled into our campsite with a magnificent view of snow-capped mountains. The Heiltsuk people have lived in the area for thousands of years, hunting and fishing the deep waters. In the early 1900s a group of Norwegian settlers arrived from Minnesota and their descendants still live in the area.

Water is everywhere. Glacial fed rivers tumble over rocks in hundreds of waterfalls, tall and small. 

The fjord is very long, bending and turning along various arms. There is so much fresh water entering the fjord that it has the distinctive milky green colour created by glacial flour. As one travels down the fjords the water changes to the more typical ocean blue. 

Sunny weather was the rule for most of our stay in Bella Coola. On the one rainy day, we drove up into the mountains on a forestry road (ie: rough). Although we didn't see the glacier we hoped for, the landscape astounded us with its beauty. High alpine meadows are home to a wonderful array of flora and fauna. 

The mountains played peek-a-boo with the clouds. 

On our way out of Bella Coola we saw our second bear of the trip, ambling down the road, weaving back and forth along the centreline as if doing a sobriety test. He slowly moved to the side as we inched closer to him. 

Back up The Hill to the interior plain again, also beautiful and green. 

Down through the arid lands around Cache Creek, and along the Fraser River until we reached the ferry terminal, and home. 

As Canada Day approaches I am so thankful for this beautiful land where I live. Happy Canada Day to my fellow Canadians!