Water and More Water

 

British Columbia's coastline is over 25,000 km (15,000 miles) long, incised by deep fjords reaching into the heart of the Coastal Mountains. Roughly spanning 11 degrees of latitude (49th to 60th), there are only four access points from the interior of Canada to the Pacific Ocean because of the rugged terrain. Vancouver and Prince Rupert are easily reached by excellent highways. Stewart, where we visited a couple of years ago, is another. 

Part Two of our recent road trip took us to Bella Coola, the fourth access point to the coast via roads. Scottish explorer Sir Alexander Mackenzie, the first European to cross the North American continent north of Mexico, reached Bella Coola in July 1793. Had he arrived just six weeks earlier, he would have met Captain Cook who sailed up the long fjords to the same spot. What a meeting that would have been! 

The road to Bella Coola includes an infamous section known as The Hill, or The Precipice. Descending from 5000 feet to sea level in 10 kilometres via treacherous curves on a steep gravel road with no guardrails where looking over the edge is like looking into an abyss, it's not for the fainthearted. Locals told us that some people who drive down refuse to return via the same route, preferring to fly out, or take the ferry. Tim put the Tahoe in four-wheel drive low and crawled safely down the hill. I just prayed. And took a few photos.

Once there, we settled into our campsite with a magnificent view of snow-capped mountains. The Heiltsuk people have lived in the area for thousands of years, hunting and fishing the deep waters. In the early 1900s a group of Norwegian settlers arrived from Minnesota and their descendants still live in the area.

Water is everywhere. Glacial fed rivers tumble over rocks in hundreds of waterfalls, tall and small. 

The fjord is very long, bending and turning along various arms. There is so much fresh water entering the fjord that it has the distinctive milky green colour created by glacial flour. As one travels down the fjords the water changes to the more typical ocean blue. 

Sunny weather was the rule for most of our stay in Bella Coola. On the one rainy day, we drove up into the mountains on a forestry road (ie: rough). Although we didn't see the glacier we hoped for, the landscape astounded us with its beauty. High alpine meadows are home to a wonderful array of flora and fauna. 

The mountains played peek-a-boo with the clouds. 

On our way out of Bella Coola we saw our second bear of the trip, ambling down the road, weaving back and forth along the centreline as if doing a sobriety test. He slowly moved to the side as we inched closer to him. 

Back up The Hill to the interior plain again, also beautiful and green. 

Down through the arid lands around Cache Creek, and along the Fraser River until we reached the ferry terminal, and home. 

As Canada Day approaches I am so thankful for this beautiful land where I live. Happy Canada Day to my fellow Canadians! 

Gold and Water

 

Home again after a fun trip exploring some of the more remote corners of our beautiful province. After taking the ferry to the mainland, we stopped at Nairn Falls Campground. A short walk took us to the lookout from where we heard the water thundering over the rocks and through the canyon carved out over millennia by the power of water.  

Up along the Duffy Lake Road that winds through the Coastal Mountains into the interior of BC. The landscape changed dramatically from coastal rainforest to rolling hills covered with sagebrush. We settled into a campsite at Seton Lake where a dam provides hydroelectricity for the power grid. 

In the 1960s my father drove a tanker-trailer hauling fuel to many places. One of those was the mining town of Bralorne. Dad said that he first drove the road in the winter, at night. He was so shaken by the experience that he told his dispatcher he wouldn't drive it again. However, the next night, away he went. At least he knew what to expect the second time. 

Tim and I drove the road in the daylight, in summer, without a trailer, and that was an adventure! The road is winding and narrow, clinging to the cliff, with many signs warning of rock fall. We drove around rocks going, and even more returning. 

Bralorne is a mostly abandoned gold-mining town, with its heyday in the 1940s and 50s. During the Fraser River goldrush in the 1850s miners rushed to place their claims along the rivers in the area. Few made it as far as Bralorne as the terrain is very steep and uninviting. In the late 1800s the mother lode of gold was discovered and a mine constructed in 1931. The mine was the richest gold mine in Canada, but closed in 1971 due to the low cost of gold (about $34 cdn per ounce). 

Tim spoke with some men at the mine site which has been reactivated, because, as we know, the price of gold has risen considerably. The mine will never be as vast as it once was, but still productive.

A friend of mine grew up in Bralorne. She attended the church shown above, one of the few well-maintained buildings in town. 

Abandoned houses and gardens tell the stories of the past. In one, yellow roses bloom alongside lilac bushes. Poppies grow from stone walls. A few homes are occupied as the area is great for heli-skiing in the winter. 

The old community hall is locked and no longer in use due to safety concerns. But beside one outside corner is a pay telephone and a post office box. The school was first converted to a museum, but is now abandoned and the museum housed in the former post office. It was closed the day we were there. 

A circular outdoor feature displays various pieces of mining equipment with short descriptions of their use, and this old fire truck. We noticed that many of the buildings in town, lived-in or not, have sprinklers on the roofs, a necessity in this area where forest fires have ravaged areas.

Hydro dams dot the area. All the water rushing down the mountains is put to good use in generating power for our province. I wonder which has been the most profitable - gold or water? 

Postcards from the Road

 

We’re off exploring our beautiful province. Hairpin turns, 

majestic views in remote territory where bear warnings abound, but we have not seen one yet. 

Stunning waterfalls, rivers, and lakes a-plenty. 

Flowers growing in abandoned villages. 

Will fill in more on our return. 

Friday Favourites from Home and Away

I rather dropped off the blogosphere for a couple of weeks. We were camping on the west coast of Vancouver Island, in Ucluelet (pronounced as it's written - the U (you) is the first syllable). Our hikes took us along very rugged shores with stunning views of sea, rocks, and sky. The weather, which can be quite wet, cooperated fully with lots of sunshine and no rain. 

There are some fantastical-looking natural sculptures in the forest. This tangle of tree trunk and roots looks to me like a prehistoric creature frozen in time. Enormous trees, bald eagles, much birdsong, a little kayaking, hiking, and relaxing with a view nicely filled the four days of our trip.

One morning we drove along the highway a short distance to enjoy a picnic lunch on a sandy beach. How surprising to see thick drifts of mist obscuring the waves and rocks. If one were out at sea, it would be dangerous. No wonder this stretch of water is called the Graveyard of the Pacific. 

We saw no boats, but during our walk along the beach, a group of cyclists materialized out of the mist, silently pedaling past us to disappear just as quickly in the other direction. Surreal is the word that came to mind.

We've been home now for a week, catching up with house and garden. There've been a number of appointments and social engagements keeping us busy, including a birthday party for a 6-year-old and a new teenager. Last night was the band/choir concert for our newly 13-year-old granddaughter. 

The pale pink peonies (I think they are Sarah Bernhardt) have delighted me all week. I believe these ruffled beauties are my favourites of them all, so feminine and elegant. 

Every few days I pick another bowlful of ripe strawberries, juicy and sweet. We slice them into our breakfast granola, or eat them plain. I've frozen a couple of bags for winter to use for sauces or smoothies. Soon the blueberries will ripen from green to dusty blue-purple. The bushes are loaded and a couple of American Robins have been visiting. To hopefully deter them, we've strung rope above the bushes and hung blank CDs on string to dance and dazzle in the sunshine. Those CDs have been sitting in a box for years, of no use to us as originally intended. It's quite festive looking from my kitchen window. We will see how effective they are. 

There's an invasive species that's appeared in the past five years - the European Wall Lizard. The story of its appearance is a cautionary tale - a man once had a small zoo on nearby. When he tired of the zoo, he let the animals loose. The lizard was one of them and it has slowly made inroads, moving from the site of its release on the peninsula to invade gardens throughout the south island. I'm certain they will move northwards, as well. I don't like the creatures at all, but they have one semi-redeeming feature in that they eat the slugs that used to carve holes into my strawberries. 

Roses are the stars of the garden now. Lichfield Angel is the newest and produces bloom after creamy bloom. I am a little startled by how large the bush is and am contemplating pruning it to not sprawl quite so much. There is always a bouquet or two or three of roses in the house these days, in varying shades of pink and white. 

I tried a new dish, Muhalabia, an Arabic milk pudding faintly flavoured with rose water. My Persian friend gave me a bottle of rose water and I'm looking for ways to use it. The pudding is similar to Panna Cotta from Italy, but thickened with cornstarch rather than gelatin. Not too sweet and delicious with fresh strawberries and a sprinkle of macadamia nuts (the recipe recommends pistachios). 

 Elderflowers adorn the bush these days. My little helper Cora held the blossoms while I snipped them to make Elderflower Cordial. On a warm summer day a tall glass of club soda with ice and this concentrate is perfect for sipping while on the patio. 

I'm slowly catching up with reading blogs, and hope to visit you there soon.